Posts Tagged ‘ Hybrid Teas ’

Planting Roses (Bare Root or Semi Bare Root)

Sunday, January 2nd, 2011
2630672027 50ec35e25b m Planting Roses (Bare Root or Semi Bare Root)

Planting roses correctly in a proper location is the most important success factor. Before you plant your roses, let’s review proper placement.

Roses should receive a minimum of 6 hours of strong sunlight. The more the better. They benefit from good air circulation and should not be planted too near to large plants that will compete for food and water. Do not plant roses where the drainage is poor. When spacing roses, follow this guide for zone 6. Plant Hybrid Teas and Grandifloras 30-36″ apart, Floribundas 24-30″ apart, Shrub roses 4-8′ apart and Climbers on fences 10-18′ apart. Plant climbers and pillar roses right up against their supports. In general, for full coverage, climbing roses are planted on every other fence post. In the south, roses should be planted farther apart; and in the north, somewhat closer planting is recommended.

Upon receiving your roses, open the cartons to check their condition. If the plants are dry, spray with water or soak the plants. If you are not ready to plant your roses, keep them in the cartons in a cool (35-40 degrees F.) area. Check daily to make sure the roots and canes do not dry out; usually a light spray every 2-3 days is sufficient. Keep the plastic securely wrapped around the roses.

One day before planting your roses, bring them into room temperature. It is particularly beneficial to unpack them and place the roots in a pail of lukewarm water into which you have added SeaMate at the rate of 1 tablespoon to a gallon of water.

Planting Roses

While preparing the soil, keep the unplanted roses in a shady place and take care that the roots do not dry out. Prepare the planting hole by removing the soil to a depth of 12-18″. Make the hole wide enough so the roots will have enough room for natural root spread, plus 2 inches on all sides. The soil you have removed should be mixed thoroughly with organic material. It can be peat moss, compost, well-rotted manure or leaf mold. Leafgro, Chesapeake Blue or Chesapeake Green all work especially well. This should be added at the rate of one part organic material to two parts soil.

Trim any roots or stems that are broken. Then build a mound of soil in the hole so the roots are supported at a 45-degree angle. Spread the roots over the mound. The mound should be high enough so the bud union is 1″ below ground level. In areas where the minimum temperature is warmer than 10 degrees F., plant the bud union at or 1″ above ground level. (The bud union is the knob where all the canes come together to join the central trunk). Only budded roses have bud unions. “Own root” roses, usually hardy shrub roses, are always planted with the place where the canes branch out from the trunk an inch or two below the soil surface.

Fill the hole 2/3 full with the enriched soil mixture and tramp to remove any air pockets. Water thoroughly with liquid SeaMate solution prepared at the rate of 1 tablespoon of SeaMate to a gallon of water. Fill hole with solution and let it soak into soil. After solution has soaked in, fill the hole with the soil mixture to ground level, firm the soil and water again. Mound the remaining soil mixture (and additional soil, if necessary) over the rose, covering all canes to within 2-3″ of the top. Finally, make a water-holding ring of soil, about 24 inches across, around the rose. Slowly water the soil mound. Keep the mound moist at all times. This soil mound will keep canes plump and moist while new feeder roots and sprouts are forming. Carefully remove the soil mound after the sprouts have been formed. Within a week, they will turn their normal deep green color. Try to protect these sprouts from sudden late frost. (If the young sprouts should be injured, the rose will sprout again in a few weeks).

Newly planted roses should be fertilized monthly, but very lightly. Too little is better than too much. Until the leaves are full-size, use 100% natural organic fertilizer such as fish emulsion, SeaMate or Plant-Tone. Never fertilize roses in autumn.

Newly planted roses that are reluctant to leaf out can be encouraged if the procedure below is followed: Lay a piece of cotton cloth over the rose canes with one end of the cloth in a bucket of water which sits next to the rose. An old T-shirt, a piece of bed sheet (double thickness) or burlap will work fine. The cloth should not touch the ground all the way around the rose: a small air space is needed for ventilation. The bucket should be kept full at all times. The purpose of this procedure is to make a greenhouse (steam chamber) effect: this will keep the canes from drying out before the roots begin to grow. A similar process commonly referred to as “sweating” is often used in nurseries. Once very small leaves appear on the rose canes, the cloth and the soil mound can be removed, preferably in the evening before a cloudy day.

Out Classed by Roses

Sunday, January 2nd, 2011
4860409584 321a14de53 m Out Classed by Roses

What are the different classifications of roses that exist? This is a common question that arises when one is considering starting a rose garden. It may come as a surprise and it may start a debate among rose lovers but all roses are basically the same. Now before you discount that statement, let us look at the facts.

Yes, roses are typically classified into groups with similar growth habits, hardiness, shape of the flower and other characteristics. However, this is not as easy to do today as it once was. This is because the different varieties of roses have been cross bred and re-cross bred so many times that modern roses have the characteristics of several of the classes of roses. Nevertheless the rose literature still lists roses in specific classes even though they have common characteristics with many of the other classes of roses.

Probably one of the best and easiest ways to classify roses is on their habit of growth. Based on the habit of growth, roses case be classified as bush roses or climbing roses. Bush roses are generally thought of as self-supporting (free standing) and can grow up to six feet tall. The bush roses are thought of as the most versatile as they do not need to be planted up against something up which to climb. Climbing roses on the other hand must be provided with some sort of support for them to grow along. Climbing roses are best planted up against a building or structure such as a fence or gazebo.

A common type of bush rose is the hybrid teas rose. The hybrid teas are probably the most widely grown and are more popular than most of the other roses combined. Other bush roses include old roses, shrub roses, grandifloras, floribundas, and tree roses.

Climbing roses can be further classed as ramblers, climbing hybrid teas, pillar roses, ever blooming climbers and climbing floribundas to name a few. A main value of the climbing roses is to cover bare walls or fences. In addition if provided with the correct support, climbing roses can even replace a standard fence to provide a sturdy barrier.

The True Beauty of Climbing Roses

Thursday, December 9th, 2010
1854864783 6c3e269383 m The True Beauty of Climbing Roses

What is more beautiful than seeing a home or building with an arch of climbing roses in the landscaping? Climbing roses are one of many plants that branch out and intertwine themselves among arches, trellises, or even buildings and railings. They can add a great landscape element to any foundation.

Climbing roses are different from the regular roses that are planted as they are trained to grow upward like vines. Some of them are hybrid teas, wichuraine, and large flowered climbers. They are a beautiful addition to the look of ones house

Would you like more information about climbing roses? It is easy to learn about this great beauty. First of all, there are many types of climbing roses. They range in color, texture, and look. They also range in hardiness as well. Of course, you need to know what you are looking of in your climbing rose. When choosing climbing roses, some things that you need to consider are size, shade tolerance, disease resistance and colour.

Most important is knowing your hardiness level. This tells you what will grow in your area. Also as important is to pick varieties that will grow in the element you are placing them. What type of soil will you use? Will the area have full sun, partial sun, or will it be in shade.

Before getting discouraged, though, realize that there are many varieties of climbing roses to choose from and more then likely, you will find something to meet your needs. To find variety, forget about choosing your local hardware store, discount department store, or even the local gardening outlet. While these places often have a good selection, they don’t have the most.

Use the internet to find some great climbing roses of the most beautiful variety. Often you can have a catalog sent to you with many choices, or you can find and buy online. You will be able to find just what you are looking for, or maybe even something you never imagined.

Climbing roses can add a lot to any landscape. Take the time to choose climbing roses that fit your area and landscape design. Also, grab a book or do a little research online about the care the type of climbing rose you chose will need. Taking this time to do these things will give you the best climbing rose you can get.

About the Author

Ken Austin
Online Discount Shopping Guide
Roses and Rose Gardening