CLIMBING ROSES ROSE SAGE
Saturday, January 7th, 2012CLIMBING ROSES ROSE SAGE
Robert Allen Fabric Content: 71% VISCOSE 29% COTTON Horizontal Repeat: 9.25 Vertical Repeat: 11.50 Width: 55
Price:
Robert Allen Fabric Content: 71% VISCOSE 29% COTTON Horizontal Repeat: 9.25 Vertical Repeat: 11.50 Width: 55
Price:

Roses are a favorite plant for landscaping and can be used in a variety of ways. These beautiful flowers can make the exterior of any home more elegant and inviting and choosing the right ones that will compliment your landscape and add to the style of your home is an important task.
Fortunately, the number of ornamental landscape roses make finding them an easy task. The difficulty consists of choosing the right ones from this variety. There are a number of classes of roses whose characteristics make them great for use as landscape ornamentals. For instance, the gardener who wants to grow roses up and over an archway or a trellis may want to use tall growing tea roses. Tea roses are renowned for their nodding blooms, therefore all who pass under the arch would be treated to the beautiful sight of roses in full bloom.
Roses are commonly seen climbing a wall or an arbor. For this type of landscape, the true climbing rose is the best choice. True climbing roses can be trained to many different effects, including climbing up the length of the structure, or accenting the tops and sides of a wall or building.
If you want a great background rose bush, the Polyantha or modern day Floribunda is a perfect match. These rose bushes have large sprays of blooms and can go well in a garden next to the house or anywhere that your landscape needs color.
Some rose bushes are rather large and should be planted at the back of your garden, but there are miniature or low growing China roses that are perfect to plant in front of other plants. Roses can even be used as hedges, with modern Shrub roses and Rugosa roses being excellent choices.
Color is an important consideration for your roses and you need to think about where you will be planting the roses and what color is needed for that area. Luckily, roses come in many shapes, sizes and colors so there is a rose for every spot in the garden.
When picking a rose plant for a certain area, be sure that it complimentsthe surrounding landscape. For instance, a spray of plain white tea roses can be striking against a dark red brick home, or an arrangement of pink roses can be the perfect compliment to a stone or marble entranceway. With so many colors of roses to choose from, it should be easy to find colors that compliment and enhance any decorating scheme.
One popular trend in the world of landscaping is to use a variety of different plants and flowers in the landscape. Whereas single species landscaping was in vogue a few years ago, most of today’s gardeners like to use a mix of different colors, species and styles of plants. Doing so not only makes for a vibrant garden, but it is thought to enhance the health of the soil as well.
Due to the large variety, roses work well in every concievable place in the garden and can be a beautiful part of an overall landscape of plants and flowers. There is also a rose for every climate so gardeners everywhere can enjoy this beautiful and timeless flower.

Planting roses correctly in a proper location is the most important success factor. Before you plant your roses, let’s review proper placement.
Roses should receive a minimum of 6 hours of strong sunlight. The more the better. They benefit from good air circulation and should not be planted too near to large plants that will compete for food and water. Do not plant roses where the drainage is poor. When spacing roses, follow this guide for zone 6. Plant Hybrid Teas and Grandifloras 30-36″ apart, Floribundas 24-30″ apart, Shrub roses 4-8′ apart and Climbers on fences 10-18′ apart. Plant climbers and pillar roses right up against their supports. In general, for full coverage, climbing roses are planted on every other fence post. In the south, roses should be planted farther apart; and in the north, somewhat closer planting is recommended.
Upon receiving your roses, open the cartons to check their condition. If the plants are dry, spray with water or soak the plants. If you are not ready to plant your roses, keep them in the cartons in a cool (35-40 degrees F.) area. Check daily to make sure the roots and canes do not dry out; usually a light spray every 2-3 days is sufficient. Keep the plastic securely wrapped around the roses.
One day before planting your roses, bring them into room temperature. It is particularly beneficial to unpack them and place the roots in a pail of lukewarm water into which you have added SeaMate at the rate of 1 tablespoon to a gallon of water.
Planting Roses
While preparing the soil, keep the unplanted roses in a shady place and take care that the roots do not dry out. Prepare the planting hole by removing the soil to a depth of 12-18″. Make the hole wide enough so the roots will have enough room for natural root spread, plus 2 inches on all sides. The soil you have removed should be mixed thoroughly with organic material. It can be peat moss, compost, well-rotted manure or leaf mold. Leafgro, Chesapeake Blue or Chesapeake Green all work especially well. This should be added at the rate of one part organic material to two parts soil.
Trim any roots or stems that are broken. Then build a mound of soil in the hole so the roots are supported at a 45-degree angle. Spread the roots over the mound. The mound should be high enough so the bud union is 1″ below ground level. In areas where the minimum temperature is warmer than 10 degrees F., plant the bud union at or 1″ above ground level. (The bud union is the knob where all the canes come together to join the central trunk). Only budded roses have bud unions. “Own root” roses, usually hardy shrub roses, are always planted with the place where the canes branch out from the trunk an inch or two below the soil surface.
Fill the hole 2/3 full with the enriched soil mixture and tramp to remove any air pockets. Water thoroughly with liquid SeaMate solution prepared at the rate of 1 tablespoon of SeaMate to a gallon of water. Fill hole with solution and let it soak into soil. After solution has soaked in, fill the hole with the soil mixture to ground level, firm the soil and water again. Mound the remaining soil mixture (and additional soil, if necessary) over the rose, covering all canes to within 2-3″ of the top. Finally, make a water-holding ring of soil, about 24 inches across, around the rose. Slowly water the soil mound. Keep the mound moist at all times. This soil mound will keep canes plump and moist while new feeder roots and sprouts are forming. Carefully remove the soil mound after the sprouts have been formed. Within a week, they will turn their normal deep green color. Try to protect these sprouts from sudden late frost. (If the young sprouts should be injured, the rose will sprout again in a few weeks).
Newly planted roses should be fertilized monthly, but very lightly. Too little is better than too much. Until the leaves are full-size, use 100% natural organic fertilizer such as fish emulsion, SeaMate or Plant-Tone. Never fertilize roses in autumn.
Newly planted roses that are reluctant to leaf out can be encouraged if the procedure below is followed: Lay a piece of cotton cloth over the rose canes with one end of the cloth in a bucket of water which sits next to the rose. An old T-shirt, a piece of bed sheet (double thickness) or burlap will work fine. The cloth should not touch the ground all the way around the rose: a small air space is needed for ventilation. The bucket should be kept full at all times. The purpose of this procedure is to make a greenhouse (steam chamber) effect: this will keep the canes from drying out before the roots begin to grow. A similar process commonly referred to as “sweating” is often used in nurseries. Once very small leaves appear on the rose canes, the cloth and the soil mound can be removed, preferably in the evening before a cloudy day.

If you are like me and have been scared away from growing roses because you believed they were hard to grow, its time to put away your incorrect conception. Roses are amazingly easy to grow and care for. They are far from being the picky, pest-infested plants that they are believed out to be.
Roses have 5 fundamental requirements:
1. They need plenty of sun. With very few exclusions, roses enjoy the sun. Select a spot for roses that has at least 6 hours of sun per day, and they will pay you back with fine-looking, flashy blooms.
2. Water is a must. Roses are thirsty plants. Prepare to give your rose garden a good everyday soaking to add-on to the rain.
3. Pests need to be controlled. Roses are inclined to draw in pestering bugs like aphids and Japanese beetles. There are all kinds of organic treatments if you are opposed to spraying with a pesticide planned for roses.
4. Roses like to eat, so feed. The results will be more, complete and more colorful flowers if you nourish your roses every month with a well balanced fertilizer.
5. Pluck your roses. For sure, roses need to be pruned and groomed. The more that can be put on table for display. The more you pluck your roses, the more you will get.
What do you think, have you got a spot in your yard that gets at least six hours of sun a day, is close enough to the garden hose that watering is easy, willing to keep the pest away and is easily accessible by paths and walkways? If so, you have a great location for a rose garden.
Several ideas for rose gardens you might consider are:

What are the different classifications of roses that exist? This is a common question that arises when one is considering starting a rose garden. It may come as a surprise and it may start a debate among rose lovers but all roses are basically the same. Now before you discount that statement, let us look at the facts.
Yes, roses are typically classified into groups with similar growth habits, hardiness, shape of the flower and other characteristics. However, this is not as easy to do today as it once was. This is because the different varieties of roses have been cross bred and re-cross bred so many times that modern roses have the characteristics of several of the classes of roses. Nevertheless the rose literature still lists roses in specific classes even though they have common characteristics with many of the other classes of roses.
Probably one of the best and easiest ways to classify roses is on their habit of growth. Based on the habit of growth, roses case be classified as bush roses or climbing roses. Bush roses are generally thought of as self-supporting (free standing) and can grow up to six feet tall. The bush roses are thought of as the most versatile as they do not need to be planted up against something up which to climb. Climbing roses on the other hand must be provided with some sort of support for them to grow along. Climbing roses are best planted up against a building or structure such as a fence or gazebo.
A common type of bush rose is the hybrid teas rose. The hybrid teas are probably the most widely grown and are more popular than most of the other roses combined. Other bush roses include old roses, shrub roses, grandifloras, floribundas, and tree roses.
Climbing roses can be further classed as ramblers, climbing hybrid teas, pillar roses, ever blooming climbers and climbing floribundas to name a few. A main value of the climbing roses is to cover bare walls or fences. In addition if provided with the correct support, climbing roses can even replace a standard fence to provide a sturdy barrier.