Roses are a favorite plant for landscaping and can be used in a variety of ways. These beautiful flowers can make the exterior of any home more elegant and inviting and choosing the right ones that will compliment your landscape and add to the style of your home is an important task.

Fortunately, the number of ornamental landscape roses make finding them an easy task. The difficulty consists of choosing the right ones from this variety. There are a number of classes of roses whose characteristics make them great for use as landscape ornamentals. For instance, the gardener who wants to grow roses up and over an archway or a trellis may want to use tall growing tea roses. Tea roses are renowned for their nodding blooms, therefore all who pass under the arch would be treated to the beautiful sight of roses in full bloom.

Roses are commonly seen climbing a wall or an arbor. For this type of landscape, the true climbing rose is the best choice. True climbing roses can be trained to many different effects, including climbing up the length of the structure, or accenting the tops and sides of a wall or building.

If you want a great background rose bush, the Polyantha or modern day Floribunda is a perfect match. These rose bushes have large sprays of blooms and can go well in a garden next to the house or anywhere that your landscape needs color.

Some rose bushes are rather large and should be planted at the back of your garden, but there are miniature or low growing China roses that are perfect to plant in front of other plants. Roses can even be used as hedges, with modern Shrub roses and Rugosa roses being excellent choices.

Color is an important consideration for your roses and you need to think about where you will be planting the roses and what color is needed for that area. Luckily, roses come in many shapes, sizes and colors so there is a rose for every spot in the garden.

When picking a rose plant for a certain area, be sure that it complimentsthe surrounding landscape. For instance, a spray of plain white tea roses can be striking against a dark red brick home, or an arrangement of pink roses can be the perfect compliment to a stone or marble entranceway. With so many colors of roses to choose from, it should be easy to find colors that compliment and enhance any decorating scheme.

One popular trend in the world of landscaping is to use a variety of different plants and flowers in the landscape. Whereas single species landscaping was in vogue a few years ago, most of today’s gardeners like to use a mix of different colors, species and styles of plants. Doing so not only makes for a vibrant garden, but it is thought to enhance the health of the soil as well.

Due to the large variety, roses work well in every concievable place in the garden and can be a beautiful part of an overall landscape of plants and flowers. There is also a rose for every climate so gardeners everywhere can enjoy this beautiful and timeless flower.

Although all kinds of gardening is my passion in life, nothing but nothing gives me greater pleasure than my beautiful rose garden. They are just so stunning, and I do really love the colors and the amazing varieties which are available.

To get the best from your rose garden however there are quite a few important pointers to bear in mind, and I would like to share some of these with you.

When the spring comes and the ground is thawed it is time to start planting your rose garden. Roses have actually been a cherished aphrodisiac since biblical times, and have been around for over 3000 years. Despite this, they still hold a particular mystery and fascination, not to mention the fact that they look and smell fantastic.

One of the most important rules of growing roses is to plant the rose bush in an area that receives around 4 to 6 hours of sunlight every day. It is also advisable not to plant too many trees or other plants around the rose bush, because many of these are likely to either mix with the rose or stifle it’s growth. If you are replacing an old rose bush, approximately 1-1/2 cubic feet of old soil should be removed, and fresh soil added to replace it. When positioning your rose in the garden or landscape, make sure that you consider the growth characteristics of the rose in question.

To give you an example, place climbers and ramblers along fences, trellises, or next to arches or pergolas. This location offers them unrestricted growth and greatly increases the potential for some superb looking blooms.

Roses also look really beautiful in island beds mixed in with perennials, and miniature roses make great edging plants in front of the taller varieties. If you plant them singly, shrub roses can make excellent specimen plants, or they can be clustered to make a flowering hedge. You can also use them to camouflage unsightly parts of your garden.

Dig a hole large enough for the root mass, and loosen the bottom of the hole. I suggest that you should also add some bone meal which is a slow acting source of phosphorus. This leads to healthy root growth in the rose plant.

The plant should then be placed in the hole very carefully and the hole refilled with soil, making sure that the roots are properly covered. Water the rose plant well, and let it absorb the water before applying the final covering of soil. When this has been completed, water the plant some more and create a mound of soil about 6 inches high. The dome will keep the stems from drying out until the plant is rooted. Gradually remove the excess soil as the leaves start to open.

Special care should be taken with the planting depth, which varies considerably according to the climate you live in.

If you live in a colder area, plant a bit deeper and consult with other people growing roses in your area. If you are buying potted roses, you should plant them about 1 inch deeper than their potted level. The best time to plant roses varies depending on the winter temperature.

Where temperatures don’t drop below -10 degrees F in either fall or spring, planting is satisfactory. If you live in an area where winter temperatures drop below -10 degrees F, spring planting is preferable. Plants should be planted in a dormant condition if purchased bare root, but container grown plants may be planted throughout the growing season.

Spacing of the rose plant is highly influenced by the temperature. In regions where winters are severe, the rose plant does not grow so large as when in mild climates. Taking this into consideration, hybrid tea roses should be spaced 1-1/2 to 3 feet apart, but large vigorous growers such as hybrid perpetuals will need 3 to 5 feet of space, while the climbers need from 8 to 10 feet of space.

If the winter temperature is below 10 degrees F, roses can grow healthily if proper care is taken, so the gardener must be prepared to endure that cold and probably wet experience. In colder areas, roses enjoy their last fertilization of the season by August 15th or thereabouts.

These few pointers will help to ensure that your roses grow well, and bloom nicely all summer long.

I would also like to share with you a few important additional thoughts on how you can avoid the diseases which can attack your roses.

To make sure that your most prized roses are in the pink or even red of their health, simply follow these tips on dealing with the most common rose health problems.

Black Spots On Leaves.

This disease is commonly known as black spot. Black spots appear as circular with fringed edges on the leaves, and they cause them to yellow. The solution is to remove the infected foliage and pick up any fallen leaves around the rose. Artificial sprays can be used to prevent or treat this kind of rose disease.

Stunted Or Malformed Young Canes.

Known as powdery mildew, this is a fungal disease that covers leaves stems and buds with wind spread white powder. It makes the leaves curl and turn purple. Spray with Funginex or Benomyl to treat this particular disease which could totally ruin your rose garden.

Blistered Underside Of Leaves.

A disease of roses known as rust, it is characterized with orange-red blisters that turn black in fall. In spring it will attack the new sprouts, and this disease can even survive the winter.

What you should do is to collect and discard leaves that are infected in fall, and also spraying Benomyl and Funginex every 7-10 days will help.

Malformed Or Stunted Leaves And Flowers

The one most likely cause of this is the presence of spider mites. These are tiny yellow red or green spiders which cling to the underside of the leaves. They will suck the juices from the leaves, but the application of Orthene or Isotox may help in treating this infestation.

Weak And Mottled Leaves Showing Tiny White Webs Underneath.

This might be caused by aphids, which are small soft-bodied insects which are usually brown green or red. Often found clustered under leaves and flower buds, they suck plant juices from tender buds. However Malathion or Diazinon spray may help roses to survive these bugs.

Flowers That Do Not Open Or Are Deformed When They Do Open.

Thrips could be the reason behind this deformation and unopened flowers, which is characterized with slender brown-yellow bugs with fringed wings thriving in the flower buds. They will also

suck the juices from the flower buds, so therefore you should cut and discard all infested flowers. Using Orthene and Malathion will also treat this health problem with your roses.

I do hope that the information I have given you regarding the diseases that you can find in roses will prove very helpful in making your rose gardening more rewarding and fruitful.

Sunny Knock Out Rose - Disease Resistant -Yellow Blooms

• Color of Bloom: Yellow
• Hardy Zones: 4-9
• Months of Bloom: Summer
• Mature Height: 2-3'
• Immediate shipping. Size Shipped: 4" pot

SUNNY KNOCK OUT ( RADsunny ppaf )This new release has the disease resistance of the original Knock Out , with similarly dark, attractive foliage, and a slightly more upright habit. The single flowers are bright yellow at opening, turning cream white when fully open. The yellow color will stay stronger during the cooler times of the year. The propagation of, and or the sale of plant parts is prohibited without a license. Patent/trademark tag required. Zone 4, 3-4 feet, full sun

Price: $ 9.99

Our most popular plant category is roses and for good reason – everyone loves roses! This week we are featuring a new climbing rose that our rose lovers will adore -’Brite Eyes’. Bred by the famous Knockout rosarian William Radler, ‘Brite Eyes’ is virtually the most black spot resistant climbing rose ever introduced – requiring the least maintenance of any climbing rose.

‘Brite Eyes’ has single blooms that are salmon-pink with yellow centers and that emit a light pleasant fragrance. Expect several cycles of repeat blooms throughout the summer and into the autumn. It has a compact growth habit, reaching no more than 8 feet tall, which makes it perfect for the smaller garden. ‘Brite Eyes’ works well climbing on a trellis, an arbor or a fence. On fences, we suggest planting at every other fence post. Most trellises are 6 to 8 feet tall and most climbers grow 10 to 12 feet tall, requiring regular pruning to keep them in bounds. At 6 to 8 feet ultimate height, ‘Brite Eyes’ is a perfect low-maintenance trellis rose. ‘Brite Eyes’ is sufficiently winter-hardy and restrained in habit to be excellent for container use.

Planting and Care

• For best results plant in the spring or fall.
• Plant in full sun for best blooms, but will tolerate partial shade.
• Plant in well-drained, compost-enriched soil.
• Mulch well the first winter.
• Pruning and shaping, when necessary, should be accomplished after the initial spring bloom.
• Fertilize with Rose-Tone monthly from early spring until late summer.
• Hardy in Zones 5-9 (possibly 4 with further testing).

Click here to view ‘Brite Eyes’ on the Carroll Gardens website.

How to prepare any rose for winter always depends on temperature. In general, if in your area during winter the temperature drops to minus 10 degrees F or lower then any rose bush will need some protection.

Note: If you live in a area that has a mild winter then most of the following will not apply. However, the advice on fertilizing and watering in general does. (In mild winter areas a rose never really goes dormant though does require a season of rest).

Whether you have a hybrid tea, floribunda, tree rose, miniature or climber the goal is always the same… To protect the crown and roots of the plant from the worst of the winter cold and possible mid-winter thaws and re-freezings.

In the case of climbing roses and tree roses you will also need to protect the upper parts (long canes for climbers and top flowering crown for rose standards) as well.

Preparing a rose for winter will always start in spring ( yes, I did mean spring). Any rose that has had a long and well tended growing season will be better able to tolerate the worst any winter has to offer.

Throughout the growing season be sure to water a rose deeply (allow the soil to dry to a depth of 2 inches or so before watering again, the root system needs air too) and fertilize regularly which will encourage a deep and healthy root system as well as healthy canes and flowers.

Roses store nutrients in their woody canes and so the bigger the plant the healthier it will be. Maintain a routine of pest and disease prevention as well as careful pruning to remove spindly growth and damaged or diseased canes.

About mid to late August stop fertilizing though do continue to water deeply (never let the roots of a rose completely dry out). About late September stop cutting blooms and allow a few rose hips to develop which will be a signal to the plant that it’s dormant period is approaching.

Once you have had a few good frosts, leaves will start falling. Apply a dormant spray such as lime sulfur or a dormant oil spray. This will kill pests and fungal diseases that might try to over-winter on the plant or surrounding soil. It can also help nudge those final leaves off. Rake leaves from around your plants and throughout your yard to prevent the spread of disease or a place for pests to hide.

Continue watering only as needed until the first hard frost and the ground is frozen. At this point cover the base (crown) of the plant and the surrounding soil (about 12 inches around the base of the plant) with a thick layer of straw, leaves or mulch and then cover with a few inches of soil. Do not remove soil from around the plant to cover the crown, that soil is needed to insulate the rest of the surrounding roots. Instead, use soil from another part of the garden.

Climbing roses require the same protection listed above and in addition will need to have their long canes protected as well. Carefully remove the canes from the trellis, fence or wall they are tied to, lay them on the ground and cover with a thick layer of straw, leaves or mulch and a few inches of soil just like the base of the plant.

Tree roses are a special case in that not only do you need to protect the base and “trunk” of the plant but the top flowering crown as well.

There are 3 ways to over-winter a rose standard if it is planted in the ground. One, is to dig the plant up keeping a good sized root-ball and “heal” the plant into a large container then move it into a shed or garage for the winter. As spring approaches the plant is brought back outside and re-planted in the ground.

The second method is to carefully remove some soil from one side of the plant and bend it until it is laying on its side and then covering the entire plant with a thick layer of straw, leaves or mulch and 3 to 4 inches of soil. This method can be tricky for the novice gardener as there is a danger of cracking or breaking the plant at one of its grafting points.

The third method may be the easiest for a ground planted tree rose. First, wrap the entire plant in a thick layer of straw and burlap taking care to fully protect the plant from top to bottom. Secure everything with either clips, string, twine or wire and after taking a few measurements construct a ply-wood box (with an open bottom) to place around or over the plant.

Rose standards that are planted in containers are the easiest to care for. After following the advice for preparing a rose for winter listed above, simply move into a shed or garage where the temperature will be milder than the temperature outside. Check the soil now and then to make sure the roots do not dry out (water lightly when needed) and move back outside once the danger of frost has past.

Late winter – early spring: When there is no longer a danger of a killing freeze uncover your roses and water deeply if needed. Once new growth starts to appear is when you’ll want to prune. Remove any damaged or spindly canes and prune back healthy canes by 1/3 to 1/2. Then fertilize and follow all the steps necessary to promote healthy vigorous plants for the entire growing season.

Good Luck and Happy Gardening!